As an activist and manufacturer in the jewelry sector, I am often asked about gemstone sourcing. Currently there’s a working committee on colored stones that has been formed from the cross sector Madison Dialog meeting which took place in Washington DC in Oct, 2007.

The issues are complex and difficult to sort out. But it is my hope, and the hope of many others, that some day there will be the framework that will allow for certification. Of course, this would involve basic principals of fair label and environmental responsibility.

I am not part of that committee, but I am involved in these issues as a manufacturer and retailer. I would like to explain what how I consider these issues in terms of my own company.

What I will outline here are three different scenarios that offer possibilities for more transparent, ethical sourcing of fair trade gemstones from artisan miners.

Three Scenarios For Ethically Sourced Gemstones

The first scenario in the development of fair trade gemstones involves cooperatives and third party organizations that work with the artisanal miners to develop standards. The Association of Responsible Mining (ARM) is an excellent example of this type of organization.

ARM has developed standards for fair trade precious metal which have been widely recognized as exemplary. Within the next two years, ARM is also hoping to develop supply chains for fair trade gemstones as well, in some cases working with existing cooperatives, such as the Women’s Mining Cooperative of Tanzania.

TransfairUSA’s (the American fair labeling organization known for “fair trade”
coffee and bananas) study of diamonds, if it amounts to certification, might also be considered as part of this category.

However, they not working with ARM, which seems counter intuitive, except when you consider how difficult it is to work with small scale miners.

It would be relatively easy for any fair trade labeling organization to develop standards and just put a fair trade tax on diamonds and on one of DeBeer’s or Rio Tinto’s well run mines.

If TransfairUSA takes this course, their action will not change anything in the sector but it has the potential make them and a few other people rich.

It will also help absolve the sins of the diamond sector. No one has been held responsible for the death of 3.7 million miners in Africa in the blood diamond wars.

A second example involves pioneers such as Eric Braunwart of Columbia Gems who has developed the resources to contract with governments and mines to create a fair trade based system with a select group of stones.

Eric has told me that he does his cutting in China in his own factory. Many suppliers and retailers in the mainstream jewelry sector now heavily depend upon Eric’s selection of gemstones.

A third example includes working with individuals who contact the miners and develop relationships based upon a fair trade ethos. I work with one individual who has painstakingly developed a direct relationship with miners in Zambia and Sri Lanka.

One particular village where my contact now sources excellent emeralds had actually closed their emerald mine for years because they were no longer willing to deal with unscrupulous dealers.

His commerce now supports schools and AIDS drugs for the village as a whole. This person takes his stones to a particular clean cutting factory in Thailand in which people are well paid.

There are certainly other gemstone dealers who work carefully to assure that their supply chain, from mine to trade, is clean and ethical.

We need to find each other to support the development of a solid supply of ethically sourced, fair trade gemstones. Part of the purpose of my blog is to accumulate resources for the trade and post them.

Is Third Party Verification The Only Way?

One could argue that third party assurance is necessary in order for these efforts to be credible, but I am no longer sure of this.

At some point, radical transparency and the blog sphere may ultimately trump third party transparency. Quoting from an article written by Clive Thompson and published in Wired Magazine in April, 2007:

“Secrecy is dying. It’s probably already dead.

In a world where Eli Lilly’s internal drug-development memos, Paris Hilton’s phonecam images, Enron’s emails, and even the governor of California’s private conversations can be instantly forwarded across the planet, trying to hide something illicit, or trying to hide anything, really is a gamble.

So many blog rely on scoops to drive their traffic that muckraking has become a sort of mass global hobby.”

I argue we cannot wait for third party assurances for fair trade gemstones. We need to move now with radical transparency.

If someone in my network lets me know where his supply chain is sourced and cut so I can see this for myself, then obviously this person has nothing to hide.

Radical transparency supports the growth of pioneers who work within a limited network. This limited supply chain will help nurture the emerging market.

The Key Element: Trust

Each of these scenarios involves, more than anything else, trust. The people who are in my current fair trade gemstone supply network feel as strongly about ethics as I do.

Right now, they represent a valid option for moving forward without any fair trade labeling organization’s stamp of approval.

Developing these contacts is the work I have to do for my customers in order to connect their money to an economic set of relationships that is fair down to its source.

With our spotty supply chain and so few people doing this type of pioneering work, it is like trying to build circles out of triangles.

Yet there are huge opportunities right now for someone work in the lower end scale. In my company, I use semi-precious in my production line even though I have had reports of terribly conditions for cutters in India.

If I had the resources and time, I would consider doing something in India with garnets, amethyst, peridot. The basic “semi-precious” gems represent a huge market.

Those of us in the jewelry trade need to consider how we can bring in as many different types of scenarios that have higher ethical standards as possible. Just focusing on a few with “fair trade” third party certification will not sufficient.

Yet the most effective means to drive this whole fair trade gemstone movement forward lies with the consumer.

When there is a grass roots demand at the brick and mortar jewelry stores for more ethically sourced gemstones, the supply chain will respond.

To some people the thought of buying diamonds goes through their head like a nail. Just like anything else buying diamonds can be difficult because of all the options that are available. But to make this experience even scarier, when buying diamonds you will be dealing with a lot of money in some cases. But just because there are a lot of aspects that go into buying diamonds does not mean that you should be scared. The fact of the matter is that there are reputable sellers out there. It is simply up to you to find them.

When searching for somebody that sells diamonds the first thing that you need to do is make sure that they have a good reputation in the industry. In other words you do not want to buy diamonds off of some guy that is standing on the street corner. You will want to locate a couple of good sellers that have many satisfied customers. Sometimes these locations are hard to pick out, but if you do a bit of research you should not have any problems at all.

And when you are researching diamond sellers, you can also spend some time researching the industry as a whole. Find out what makes a good diamond, as well as how to spot a fake. This will allow you to make an informed decision no matter who you decide to deal with. In addition, learn as much as you can about how much different diamonds cost. If you know a general price point, doing business in a fair manner will be much easier.

The actual act of buying diamonds is not as difficult as some people make it out to be. If you are new to the industry, try to find a couple of locations in your area where you can shop. This way you will be able to speak with the sales representatives, and also get a good idea as to what is available. Also, when you buy diamonds in person you have a better chance of catching somebody that is trying to pull a fast one on you.

If you are holding back from buying diamonds because you are scared of getting taken, you need to get over your fears. This is a legitimate concern, but not one that should hold you back from what you are after. If you do your research into the diamond industry you will be much better informed during the buying process. And the saying knowledge is power” is definitely true when it comes to buying diamonds.

Get started today with your research. In no time at all you will be well informed, and in a better position to make a buying decision. There is nothing to hold you back at this point!

Loose Diamonds may seem like something that you only see in the movies, but more and more regular people are purchasing loose diamonds. Loose diamonds are often the most affordable way to get the perfect diamond ring. Many jewelers will attach loose diamonds to your jewelry for a nominal price. Loose diamonds are the most affordable way to up grade your current jewelry or to wear your own designs. Purchasing loose diamonds can now be done online and usually at the best prices. We have designed a guide for you to follow when purchasing a loose diamond.

Loose Diamonds – Clarity

Loose diamond clarity begins with flawless for a diamond that does not have any “flaws” or inclusions. Most diamonds have some flaws, feathers and specks in them that are visible under 10 X magnifications or to the naked eye. The loose diamond clarity chart begins with flawless followed by VVS 1 (very, very slight flaws) and through the whole range of diamond clarities. These flaws considerably affect diamond prices. Relax, it only takes a few minutes to learn the lingo and compare diamond prices based on diamond clarity.

Loose Diamonds – Carat Weight

The carat weight of loose diamonds is just that – how much the stone weighs. Not very exhilarating until you see the spectacular rise in price from a small quarter carat diamond to a one or two carat diamond. Loose diamonds allow couples to purchase the best diamond they can afford now and upgrade the center diamond in the future.

Loose Diamonds – Cut

Loose diamond cut refers tot the shape of your diamond. Round brilliant diamonds are the most popular diamond cut and are available in many price ranges and sizes. It pays to price round diamonds even if you plan to buy a fancy cut diamond. The “fancy cut” diamonds include oval diamonds, emerald cuts, pear shaped diamonds, heart diamonds, marquis cuts, etc. Each diamond cut has it’s own magic and romance… Which diamond cut should you choose? Let you heart by your guide.

Loose Diamonds – Color

Loose diamond color is based on matching a diamond against a set of diamond color stones called “master” stones. The colors of the master stones (usually quartz) start range from colorless (best quality) to slightly yellowish followed by diamonds that are clearly yellow and brown diamonds. The diamond color chart starts with “D” for a colorless diamond, followed by E,F,G (slight yellowish tint) and H, I and J that are clearly yellowish. There are also fancy yellow diamonds, green diamonds, etc.

Pink diamond engagement rings received a lot of attention recently when J-Lo received an exquisite 6 carat pink diamond in 2002 from Ben Affleck. Although the romance fizzled, the desire for pink diamonds did not.

Only a small number of pink diamonds are found each year, making them both extremely rare and highly sought after. Due to the supply/demand factor, they are often extremely costly and can easily run over $10,000 and typically much much more. Natural pink diamonds are light in color with just a hint of pink. Most of the world’s pink diamonds are found in Australia.

An appealing alternative to pink diamonds are pink sapphires, which are less expensive ($500 and up), come in a wider variety of shapes and sizes, and have both light and deep shades of pink. Pink sapphires receive their color from small amounts of chromium. They are a hard gemstone and are therefore suitable for everyday wear. Pink tourmalines are another alternative to pink diamonds. For those who fall into the “want champagne on a beer budget category,” you can always combine small pink diamonds with more affordable gemstones. Also, colorless diamonds can undergo treatment to develop a pink hue at a more affordable price.

One of the most famous canary yellow engagement rings was worn by Paris Hilton. The emerald cut ring weighed in at a hefty 24 carats. Regular couples today are also selecting canary yellow stones for their engagement rings. While diamonds with a slight yellowish hue are not considered desirable, those with a natural intense yellow color are actually becoming quite valuable. Only 1 in 1,000 diamonds are classified as canary yellow. The yellow color is believed to be due to the presence of nitrogen atoms when the diamond is formed. Diamonds can also undergo a process called irridiation or high pressure/high temperature treaments in order to give them a yellow hue.

As long as they look fabulous, I don’t mind the brand that is attached to my necklaces, earrings, and rings. At least that was how I felt until I found out about Cartier jewelry.

Of course, I had heard about Cartier jewelry before, and have even observed a few pieces from their collection. I always thought that they would be too expensive for me. However, one day I was able to examine some Cartier jewelry up close and I was able to take a peek at the price tag. I was surprised that even though the price was high, it certainly wasn’t extremely expensive. I mean, I wouldn’t have to file for bankruptcy to be able to buy the necklace or anything like that. As a result, I decided to buy that special necklace.

The necklace made me feel special every time I wear it. Like all Cartier jewelry, my necklace was luxurious, stylish, and elegant. I was very impressed by the sheer beauty and excellent craftsmanship of my necklace. Because I prefer to have variety in my jewelry, I own a bunch of necklaces. But I find myself wearing my new necklace all the time. I wore it when I visit the church, at my workplace, on special occasions, and even when I go on informal occasions with my friends. After a few weeks, I wanted add a few more Cartier jewelry to my collection.

Affordable:  Once someone discovers imitation diamonds, it is inconceivable why they would not want everlasting elegance, saving thousands, or tens of thousands of dollars in the process, banking the difference.  It is a fact that jewelry lovers are not acting out of charity when they buy diamond jewelry—endeavoring to make jewelers, mined diamond dealers, and the diamond cartel richer than they already are.

No way to tell the difference with the naked eye:  Scientists have synthesized and created diamond alternatives that are so ostensibly close to a mined diamonds that even certified gemologists require scientific testing equipment to tell the difference. Breakthrough advances have made the latest faux diamonds closely mimic the properties of mined diamonds.  They cut glass, they refract light into perfect hearts-and-arrows, and they have superlative fire and brilliance. In fact, in almost all measurable variations, they match or are superior to mined diamonds.

No pricing gymnastics:  A common practice in retailing mined diamond jewelry is to use phantom prices and then show impressive discounts in an effort to lure buyers.  This practice is called phantom pricing.  With lab-created diamonds this deception is not possible because the prices are low to begin with, leaving no room to use phantom pricing.

No reason to constantly police your synthetic diamond jewelry:  Do you forever want worry that you will lose expensive jewelry pieces, damage them, or have them stolen?  Do you want to feel compelled to buy a home safe?  When you travel, do you want to be burdened with frequently thinking about the security of your jewelry?  With imitation diamonds all these concerns disappear.

No need to buy insurance:  In a short time, what you’d pay in extra premiums to insure just a few pieces of mined diamond jewelry, you could fill your jewelry box with synthetic diamonds.  But that is not the worst of it.  Insurance is an ongoing never-ending expense.

No secret mined diamond dirty tricks and scams:  All mined diamonds have flaws, birthmarks, and vary in quality.  These realities are a breeding ground for a buffet mined diamond fraud that victimizes and robs consumers.  From grade bumping to laser drilling to fracture filling, the mined diamond industry is awash in unscrupulous business practices.  Lab-created diamonds are uniform, flawless, and priced low so frauds simply do not exist.

No supporting the diamond cartel:  It all starts at the top with the De Beers diamond cartel, which would run afoul of federal anti-trust laws if headquartered in the united states.  Diamonds are in fact cheap to produce and would be lower in price if it weren’t for the global cartel.  Its aim is to maintain a strong monopoly position, an objective which it has successfully achieved for decades.  In controlling the mined diamond market, De Beers has exploited a relatively simple idea: put a stranglehold on production, hold inventory, and limit distribution, thereby keeping prices stratospheric, and making diamond alternative engagement rings a popular choice.  What makes De Beers so special is its execution.  Over the past 60 years the cartel has done for mined diamonds something that eluded the oil producers of OPEC and even the cocaine barons of the Medellin cartel. De Beers has the muscle and the nerve to impose its own order on the market and has built a dominate juggernaut syndicate.

No “slave” or child labor used:  Diamond mining operations are rife with horrific conditions and have a long history of dehumanizing humiliating practices. Debt slavery and child labor is common in diamond cutting operations in India, where much of the world’s diamonds are cut and polished.

No conflict stones: It is no secret that from the beginning of the modern mined diamond industry in the 1800s through today that mined diamonds are used to support regional wars, help fund murder on a grand scale, and contribute to genocide.  Imitation diamonds are created in a lab by technicians at a reasonably low cost and, therefore, cannot possibly be used as a currency for human misery.

Wholesale diamond jewelry is really a value-added product in which loose diamonds have been placed into a one-of-a-kind gold and silver setting, such as a ring, necklace, or tiara. Typically, jewelry wholesalers do not sell to the general public, simply because of the nature of the wholesale business, which focuses on large quantities. Most people cannot afford, or have little inclination to acquire large amounts of certified loose diamonds unless they are one of the following:

1. Professional Jeweler/Craftsman: These are the skilled artisans who create attractive settings from gold and silver in which loose diamonds are set. When working with natural stones. They may be independent retailers themselves, or provide products for jewelry retail chains.

2. Investors: While this should seem self explanatory, it is worth pointing out that unlike gold and silver, diamonds are not traded or subject to the same kind of speculation as most typical commodities. Those who collect certified loose diamonds usually have different reasons for doing so.

3. Jewelry Retail Dealers: If such a store or company has its own in-house jewelers (most do), they are virtually always on the lookout for the best deals on valuable certified loose diamonds that have been analyzed and appraised from weight, color and cut. If not, they will purchase finished, wholesale diamond jewelry for resale to the general public.

How Diamonds Are Made

There are actually two kinds of diamonds, both of which may be natural – created in the earth as a result of geologic processes – or artificial, created under laboratory conditions. Furthermore, diamond may be of “gem quality,” which is used in wholesale diamond jewelry, or “industrial quality,” for use in cutting machinery.

In either case, the key is preternatural amounts of heat and pressure. When carbon is subjected to pressures of 45 – 60 millibars (45,000 – 60,000 times normal air pressure at sea level) and heat of at least 2300 degrees F (800 degrees hotter than the melting point of structural steel), its molecular structure changes from a flat, hexagonal pattern to a box-like one. It is this particular structure that gives diamond its hardness as well as the octagonal shape of the rough stones.

Cutting The Stone

The value of wholesale diamond jewelry is dependent on the cut, which is something that jewelry wholesalers look at closely. Until modern times, diamond cutting in preparation for the creation of wholesale diamond jewelry could be accomplished only with diamond, due to that substance’s hardness. Not only that, but the process was uncertain and involved an extreme amount of nerve-wracking, painstaking precision.

Today however, diamond that is used in wholesale diamond jewelry is cut with lasers, using computer-aided design. Nonetheless, it is still a precision process that requires not only creative vision, but precision mathematical calculations as well. It is why the creation of wholesale diamond jewelry is as much science as it is art.

Coloured diamonds Engagement rings that sparkle are always in demand. And what better sparkler can one find than a diamond. So are you getting ready to get down on your knees and propose to your lady love? Well, you certainly cannot go wrong with a diamond ring. There really is something about diamonds that make a woman’s face light up. The advertisements on television are constantly playing on this power of the precious stone. Is it any wonder then, that diamonds are said to be a girl’s best friend. No matter what her age, every woman in the world is floored by the magical beauty of a diamond.

It should come as no surprise then that diamond sales are constantly increasing. Most of us may not be able to buy the rarest diamonds available in the markets. Those have to be kept aside for the Paris Hiltons of the world. However, there are large numbers of diamonds that are equally beautiful and which can be appreciated just as much if not more. We all know that no two snowflakes are alike. The same rule holds in the case of diamonds. Every diamond is a unique piece with characteristics that are entirely its own.

But what are the factors that set each stone apart from all the others? The answer lies in the four Cs — cut, carat weight, color, and clarity. The higher the ratings for each of these, the greater will be the value of that diamond. Thus, before you whip out your credit card to purchase that beautiful diamond ring, it may be a good idea to understand these four Cs. Remember that you should be looking for diamonds that allow the greatest dispersion of light, and which are as clear as possible.

When looking for diamond engagement rings, a lot of people look out for Antwerp diamonds. Antwerp is one of the top producers of diamonds in the world. The diamond industry itself is concentrated in only a few places. However, the market for diamond jewelry is spread all over the world. Women everywhere adore the idea of beautiful diamond jewelry. This does not even have to limit itself to engagement rings or eternity rings. It could extend to solitaire earrings and heavy diamond-studded necklaces as well. These days, diamond jewelry is clearly the favorite of women the world over. Thus, the diamond trade is flourishing as more and more people decide to invest in diamond jewelry.

If you are on the lookout for the perfect diamond engagement ring, it would help to be familiar with the concept of the four Cs. Make sure you go to a diamond retailer with a good reputation. A number of retailers seek to raise the carat weight of a diamond, but as a compromise, end up reducing its sparkle. Do not let that happen. The greater the sparkle in a diamond, the greater will be the sparkle in the eyes of the person receiving the gift of a diamond. Look around before you take your pick. Remember that diamonds are forever. So choose an engagement ring for your beloved that will make her yours for eternity.

The most valuable and beautiful part of the ring is of course the diamond(s). This section will introduce you to the 4 different ways we discuss the quality of diamonds. As a side note, this is the part I used to always be confused and overwhelmed about.

I’ve done the leg work for you, completed the research and digested all the information you need to know when judging a diamond. This section will save you time and money by helping you make a wise diamond engagement ring purchase. As a side note, you can find this article and several hundred more on my website: Select Engagement Ring.com.

There are four categories that determine the value of a diamond. Cut, color, clarity, and carat weight. Let’s begin.

What is the Cut?

The cut of the diamond refers to its shape. There are approximately 12 different cuts or shapes of diamonds widely found at various diamond retailers. Choosing a particular cut is not an easy decision as it will define the overall feel of the engagement ring. Here are the 12 popular cuts.

1)Round Brilliant 2)Princess Cut 3)Emerald Cut 4)Heart Cut 5)Ideal Cut 6)Elexese Cut 7)Marquise Cut 8)Oval Cut 9)Pear Cut 10)Radiant Cut 11)Asscher Cut

As I stated earlier the round diamonds are usually the most popular due to achieving the most sparkle. All of the cuts of diamonds will sparkle, but the degree of sparkle will be decided by the next 3 items.

What is the color of a diamond?

Ideally you want as little color as possible in your diamond. It is the absence of color in the diamond that makes it more valuable. The only exception to this general rule is “fancies” or colored diamonds, which are fairly rare and extremely pricey. Most diamonds have some mild coloration and this is normal. The range of color goes from yellow, light brown, and gray. The table below explains the grade diamonds are given based on color.
Diamond Colour Grade
When you start shopping for your diamond, you will notice retailers refer to the diamond’s color by its corresponding letter grade above. Now you’ll know what it means!

What is the diamond’s clarity?

Most diamonds have what are called “inclusions”. Basically, these are little marks or fractures within the diamond itself. These can normally only be seen under a microscope, and are not visible to the naked eye unless the diamond is of such a poor clarity. The scale below is used to categorize these “inclusions”.
Diamond Clarity Grade

Sometimes these spots are carbon deposits. Other times they might actually be a garnet stone or some other mineral. Whatever inclusions your diamond has will make it unique and one of a kind. You may even want to consider these the “birthmarks” of your diamond. You should acquaint yourself with these marks if possible.

What is the diamond carat weight?

The larger the carat the larger the diamond, and guess what? The price will also be larger. There’s really not too much to talk about here. But, what you should be aware of is that just because two different diamonds weigh the same, it doesn’t mean they will be priced the same. Different cuts will cost different amounts generally. Got it? Easy, right?